Month: March 2010

Heart Where Fun Lange ‘owl’

If you are a Lange fan, if you like watches for many years, then you must be no stranger to this watch. This time we will ‘play’ with you, it is Lange’s most fun. Watch-Zeitwerk. We all know that Lange has a lot of masterpieces, ‘Legacy Master’ Lange 1. Without this watch, it can’t be said to be a Lange player’s Datograph, Lange’s top masterpiece Pour le Mérite, and so on. Nothing. Zeitwerk is a combination of two Germans, ‘Zeit’ means time, and ‘Werk’ refers to a device or masterpiece, so the agreement between the two, it is clear that this is a series showing precise time as the original intention of the design, and Lange chose A simplest and most direct way-digital display.

   In the long history of horological development, a large number of time display methods have been born. Although there are only two types of pointer indications and window displays, they have various forms. The watchmakers are not only concerned about how to make the time of mechanical clocks go More accurate, but also care about how to make time indication easier and easier to read. As early as the pocket watch period, a window-type digital display system has been born. The biggest advantage of digital display compared with the pointer type is that the time is preferable to read, reducing the time for resolution and conversion, and saving dial space at the same time. Has a window display function.
Lange Zeitwerk Family

   Lange Zeitwerk was born in 2009. This is the most interesting series of Lange’s products in recent years. Because its dial distribution is very interesting and the overall shape resembles an owl, it has also given it this lovely name in the workshop— -owl. Following the modern way of reading the digital display clock and the habit of reading information from left to right, the Lange Zeitwerk watch opens a window at 9 o’clock to display the hour, and the window at 3 o’clock displays the minute and is centered Symmetry, so reading time becomes very simple and easy to see at a glance. The interesting distribution on the dial is not just in such a window. Lange follows the principle of dial symmetry. The independent large second hand area is designed at 6 o’clock, and the power reserve display is at 12 o’clock. So the two time windows resemble a pair of large ‘eyes’, the small seconds dial resembles a mouth shape, the middle screw and the transparent sapphire axe exactly resemble the two ‘nostrils’. Such a design with cute face features is very addictive. Once this watch was launched, it won the GPHG gold pointer award.

Lange Zeitwerk Striking TIme

   The Zeitwerk series is by far the least member of Lange’s major series, because it has set a very clear design foundation at the beginning, so it has the best recognition and a continuity in the same vein. And stable market performance. In 2012, on the basis of the first version of the ‘Owl’ model, Lange introduced a sophisticated and complex watch-Zeitwerk Striking Time, a watch with a self-sounding function, every quarter of an hour and At 0 o’clock, the watch will ring automatically to indicate the time. Of course, this function can be turned off. Compared with the traditional questionnaire, the self-sounding watch is smaller and more advanced, because it can ring the time automatically, just like the previous time clock. At that time, Zeitwerk Striking Time was Lange’s first wristwatch with a ringing function, filling the gap of modern timepieces in the field of precision watchmaking in Germany. In 2013, Lange introduced a second ringing function. Watch-The Grand Complication. Today, Zeitwerk Striking Time watches are available in three case materials, platinum, white and rose gold, and may be available in gold or honey. Among them, the platinum model is limited to 100 pieces, and the remaining materials are not limited, but because Lange’s annual output is not high, even if it is not limited, it is still scarce.

   Among the components of the Zeitwerk dial is the “bridge” in the center of the dial, which we generally call the “time bridge”, which connects the left and right windows and the small seconds dial. This “time bridge” uses German Made of silver, depending on the model, some will be rhodium-plated and gold-plated, and some will not be treated to maintain the original appearance. The two stainless steel hammers are beautiful in shape and powerful in force. The surface is black polished to give the best metal texture. The gongs are installed in the groove between the dial and the case. Every quarter of an hour, the hammer on the right of the watch hits a high note, and every hour, the hammer on the left of the watch hits a low note.

Lange Zeitwerk Handwerkskunst

   Also in 2012, Lange Zeitwerk ushered in a masterpiece of craftsmanship, model 140.048. This is a special Lange boutique, platinum case, limited to 30 pieces. This is the Zeitwerk version with the least number of Lange. It uses Langer’s most representative handicraft, Handwerkskunst. This German long tail word is decorated with multiple words. The main idea is hand carving, but it is different from previous carvings. This craft is a sculptural art called Tremblage, which is carved by hand with fine grain texture. To this end, the dial is specially made of black rhodium-plated white 18K gold instead of solid silver, and the power reserve area and brand trademark All are hand-refined relief effects. Until today, Lange only had a few models of watches, which was a pioneering move at the time. More uniquely, the escapement wheel and fork of this watch are made of hardened 18K gold and have a structure different from the Swiss lever escapement. To pay homage to the 19th century Lange tradition, the town of Glashütte is used. The lever escapement is unprecedented.

Lange 147.025 watch

   In 2015, Lange Zeitwerk re-started, intensive work in the field of watchmaking, grandly presented the Zeitwerk Minute Repeater watch, made of platinum case, model 147.025, after the release, attracted widespread attention, because this is in addition to The Grand Complication The first minute repeater after that, and as expected, Lange did not use the most common minute repeater mechanism, but instead made the minute repeater. In 2005, the famous independent watchmaker Kari developed the world’s first minute repeater. For ten years, only a handful of watches have this mechanism. Lange Zeitwerk Minute Repeater is a blockbuster. With a ten-point structure, contrary to the traditional engraving mode, the number of points can be reduced, the time can be more accurately read, and what you see is what you see. The ten-point questionnaire uses 10 minutes as the unit to report the time, so the number of times is only 9 times at most, unlike the traditional minute questioning, which requires a maximum of 14 times, reducing the probability of counting errors.

   After the timepiece was launched, it was awarded the ‘Best Timepiece’ award of the year by the GPHG. Why is it available? Not only does it have exquisite designs such as profiled gongs, central symmetrical shells, etc., but also a unique mechanism to ensure that in the time reporting process, the accurate time will be reported according to the current time, such as when the time reporting is started at 55 seconds, then wait At the time of reporting, in order to avoid the inconsistency between the time reported during the ringing and the time displayed on the dial, the switching process of the digital dial will be delayed. After the ringing sequence ends, Lange Zeitwerk will switch the time.

Lange 140.035

   In addition to these watches, Lange Zeitwerk has a very different style, which is difficult to see today, model 140.035, Lange Zeitwerk Luminous Platinum. Launched in 2010, this watch is also made of a platinum case, limited to 100 pieces. It has already been sold out today, and it can only be seen at the auction market. This watch is special in that the dial is made of translucent sapphire glass, in order to give Zeitwerk a luminous function. Zeitwerk has only two windows and jumps quickly, so reading at night is a problem, so Lange thought of using a translucent sapphire glass to make the dial so that the internal hour and two minute dials can be absorbed during the day. Energy, glow at night. This is Lange’s only owl watch with luminous light.
Zeitwerk’s complex inner core world

   Of course, all these exciting designs of Zeitwerk can be realized by relying on many Lange patented movements. Zeitwerk has several very special technologies, one is a constant power unit with an extra small spring, the other is the number of instant jumps more than 1600 times a day, if it is a watch, there is a corresponding protection mechanism and so on. Zeitwerk needs to jump more than a thousand times a day, and jumps every minute. This requires a lot of energy, but the bigger problem is how to balance the power of the jump and the power of the balance spring system. Lange applied for a patent in 2005. By adding an additional spring to the mainspring box, the power of the instantaneous jump is provided by this spring, and this spring is also used by the balance spring. Provide power, but after the instant jump, the mainspring will quickly replenish this small spring with full energy in a short period of time. This is the constant power device of Lange, that is, the energy added to the balance spring is constant, because the instantaneous jump mechanism does not directly intercept the flow in this energy line, but briefly diverts before that.

   Another very outstanding technology is that Lange can move the minute dial to the instant of 60 seconds and realize the instant jump of the minute dial, which is very accurate. This is due to the cooperation of multiple internal gears and levers. It is not the same as most instantaneous jump mechanisms. An additional escapement system is added, which is matched with the jewel plate nails on the second wheel and resetting on the pallet fork. The lever spring can realize that when the jewel disk nail on the second wheel sweeps over the pallet fork, the pallet fork immediately releases the left wheel train, and the left wheel train is connected to the gear with full energy in the second spring. Then began to instantly push the minute disk to jump, and after the gem disk nail swept over the pallet fork, the reset lever spring would push the pallet fork to reset and lock the left wheel train again. The gear train on the right should be used for cushioning. All these actions are completed in an instant.
Summary: The time of Lange’s Zeitwerk “Owl” watch is the most direct and clear. This is its most interesting place. Many watch friends like to appreciate it at the same time when the second hand passes 60 seconds, see the time in the window The moment it jumps, it’s more exciting when it’s full. (Wen Watch House Wu Yibing Pictures from the Internet)

Roger Dubuis Launches Two New Bulgari Blue Limited Edition Watches

From December 7, 2018 to January 6, 2019, Bulgari will hold a special event at Zurich Airport to display the full range of Bulgaire blue watches for the first time. Since the launch of the first Bulgari blue watch in 2016, this exclusive collection by Bulgari has not only grown and grown, but has also been written by the world’s largest luxury watch and jewelry retailer and related watchmakers. stories of success. Today, with the addition of Roger Dubuis and Lamborghini SquareraCorse limited-edition timepieces, the series has reached new heights.

Excalibur AventadorS blue watch
 As a watchmaking masterpiece, the Excalibur AventadorS blue watch (RDDBEX0730) is limited to 8 pieces. This watch is not only at the forefront of watchmaking technology, but also a tribute to Roger Dubuis and Lamborghini SquadraCorse. Roger Dubuis decided to develop the Bulgari blue watch based on ExcaliburAventadorS, because it is the brand’s most unique, most innovative and most sports-inspired model. Roger Dubuis inspired the Lamborghini AventadorS and its V12 engine to create a true logo, priced at 242,000 Swiss francs.

Excalibur42 Automatic Blue Watch
 The second Bulgari blue watch is the Excalibur42Automatic stainless steel watch (RDDBEX0740). The blue dial is decorated with Roger Dubuis’ iconic sunburst and features a self-winding Cal. RD830 movement. This watch is limited to 30 pieces and is priced at 13,600 Swiss francs. (Photo / text watch home Xu Chaoyang)